Brown spots, uneven skin tone and patches of discolouration are often grouped together as “pigmentation”. However, not all pigmentation develops or behaves in the same way.

Two common causes of facial pigmentation are:

Sun-induced pigmentation, including freckles and sunspots
Melasma, a chronic pigmentation condition influenced by several internal and external factors

Although they can look similar, they often require very different treatment approaches.

Correctly identifying the type of pigmentation is essential. A treatment that works well for an isolated sunspot may be ineffective or could potentially aggravate melasma.

What is sun-induced pigmentation?

Sun-induced pigmentation develops after repeated exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

Sunspots, also known as solar lentigines, generally appear as:

Individual, clearly defined brown spots
Scattered pigmentation rather than symmetrical patches
Spots on frequently exposed areas, including the face, chest, shoulders and hands
Pigmentation that gradually becomes more noticeable with ongoing sun exposure

These spots are localised areas of increased melanin production associated with sun damage. Unlike melasma, they are not usually influenced by hormonal or vascular factors.

Because sunspots tend to be clearly defined and localised, they often respond well to treatments that selectively target excess pigment, such as BroadBand Light.

What is melasma?

Melasma is a chronic pigmentation condition that usually appears as irregular brown or grey-brown patches on the face.

It commonly affects the:

Cheeks
Forehead
Upper lip
Nose
Chin and jawline

Unlike isolated sunspots, melasma frequently appears on both sides of the face in a relatively symmetrical pattern. Melasma is not simply excess pigment sitting on the skin’s surface. It is a complex condition involving overactive pigment-producing cells, known as melanocytes. It can also be influenced by ultraviolet and visible light, genetics, hormones, inflammation, blood vessels and changes within the deeper structures of the skin.

Common melasma triggers include:

Sun exposure
Pregnancy and hormonal changes
Some hormonal medications, including the oral contraceptive pill
Genetic predisposition
Skin inflammation or irritation
Heat and thermal exposure in susceptible individuals

Melasma frequently becomes darker during summer and may improve during the cooler months. It can also return after successful treatment, particularly when sun exposure and other triggers are not adequately controlled.

For this reason, melasma is best viewed as a condition that requires long-term management and prevention, rather than something that can always be permanently removed.

Why does the diagnosis matter?

Sun-induced pigmentation and melasma can exist at the same time. For example, someone may have individual sunspots sitting within broader patches of melasma.

Treating all brown pigmentation as sun damage can lead to poor results. Light and energy-based treatments may effectively target some sunspots, but they can sometimes worsen or reactivate melasma.

This is why having a personalised consultation with a qualified professional before booking a pigmentation treatment is so important.

Is BBL suitable for pigmentation?

BroadBand Light, or BBL, delivers filtered pulses of light that are absorbed by pigment and other targeted structures within the skin.

For appropriately selected patients, BBL may improve:

Freckles
Solar lentigines or sunspots
Uneven pigmentation caused by sun damage
Some accompanying redness and visible photodamage

BBL is generally better suited to sun-induced pigmentation than melasma. Because light and heat may aggravate melasma in some patients, careful assessment is essential before treatment.

Where does microneedling fit?

Microneedling creates controlled microchannels within the skin. This can support skin remodelling and may enhance the delivery of selected topical ingredients.

Microneedling may be a useful addition to some melasma and pigmentation treatment plans. However, the treatment depth, frequency and accompanying skincare must be carefully selected.

In some patients, restoring the skin barrier and reducing inflammation must come before any microneedling procedure. Treating irritated or sensitised skin too aggressively may make pigmentation worse.

Can chemical peels improve pigmentation?

Professionally selected chemical peels encourage skin renewal and can help improve superficial pigmentation.

They may be used for sun-induced pigmentation and, in carefully selected cases, as part of a broader melasma-management plan.

However, stronger is not always better. Excessive peeling or irritation can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly in darker, sensitive or reactive skin types.

The type and strength of peel, skin preparation and recovery plan should always be individually selected.

Skincare is not an optional extra

For both sun-induced pigmentation and melasma, in-clinic treatments are unlikely to provide lasting improvement without an effective home skincare plan.

Depending on the patient, pigment-management ingredients may include:

Azelaic acid
Vitamin C
Retinoids
Tranexamic acid
Kojic acid
Niacinamide
Cosmelan 2 maintenance cream

Some ingredients are unsuitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Combining too many active products can also cause irritation, which may make pigmentation worse.

A gradual, professionally supervised plan is generally safer than introducing multiple acids or brightening products at the same time.

The Cosmelan approach at Panacea Skin Clinics

For suitable patients, Panacea Skin Clinics offers Cosmelan, a professionally supervised depigmentation program designed to reduce visible pigmentation and help regulate ongoing melanin production.

Rather than relying on a single in-clinic procedure, the Cosmelan method combines a professional treatment with a structured home-care program and strict sun protection.

The program includes:

A corrective phase (in clinic peel) to improve visible pigmentation
A longer-term maintenance phase (at home products) to help regulate ongoing pigment production

The Cosmelan protocol contains a combination of pigment-regulating ingredients used to target several stages of the pigmentation process.

Redness, dryness, sensitivity and peeling can occur during the program. Appropriate skin preparation, professional monitoring and following the home-care instructions are important for reducing irritation and achieving the best possible result.

Most importantly, Cosmelan does not make someone permanently immune to melasma. Maintenance skincare, sun protection and trigger management remain essential because the underlying tendency to develop pigmentation may persist.

Which treatment is right for you?

The most suitable pigmentation plan depends on:

Whether the pigmentation is melasma, sun damage, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or a combination
The depth and distribution of the pigment
Your skin type and risk of developing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Hormonal and lifestyle triggers
The health of your skin barrier
Previous treatment responses
Pregnancy, breastfeeding and relevant medical history
Your ability to follow a consistent maintenance program

For clearly defined sun-induced pigmentation, BBL, chemical peels, professional skincare or a combination of treatments may be appropriate.

For melasma, treatment usually begins with prevention, sun protection, pigment-regulating skincare and trigger management. Cosmelan, carefully selected peels or microneedling may then be incorporated when clinically appropriate.

✔ A final note about new or changing pigmentation

Not every brown mark is cosmetic pigmentation.

New, changing, irregular, symptomatic or unusual spots should be medically assessed before undergoing cosmetic pigmentation treatment.

At Panacea Skin Clinics, we recommend that patients have an up-to-date skin cancer check – ideally within the previous three months before commencing treatment for pigmentation.

We offer personalised treatment plans incorporating professional skincare, Cosmelan, BBL, microneedling and medical-grade chemical peels.

Our aim is not simply to fade the pigmentation that is currently visible, but to understand why it has developed and how it can be safely managed over time.

Book in for a personalised skin consultation today and start seeing results.

This information is general in nature and does not replace individual medical advice. Treatment suitability, risks and expected outcomes vary between patients.

Comparison Table Sun Damage Pigmentation V’s Melasma

Category	Sun Damage Pigmentation	Melasma
Primary Cause	UV radiation causing melanocyte overactivity and cellular DNA damage	Hormonal triggers (pregnancy, OCPs, HRT), genetics, and UV/heat exposure
Typical Appearance	Discrete, welldefined brown spots (solar lentigines), mottled pigmentation, uneven tone	Symmetrical, patchy brown/greybrown areas on the face
Common Locations	Face, chest, shoulders, arms — areas with chronic sun exposure	Cheeks, forehead, upper lip, chin; occasionally forearms
Onset Pattern	Gradual accumulation over years of UV exposure	Often sudden onset linked to hormonal changes or heat
Behaviour	Static spots that deepen with sun; slow progression	Fluctuates; darkens easily with sun, heat, inflammation
Underlying Pathophysiology	Localised melanocyte hyperactivity + epidermal/dermal damage	Complex: melanocyte hypersensitivity, vascular changes, inflammation
Response to Treatment	Generally responds well to BBL, peels, retinoids, vitamin C	More resistant; requires longterm management and combination therapy
Risk of Worsening	Mainly UV exposure	UV, heat, blue light, hormonal fluctuations, irritation
Best Treatment Approaches	BBL, chemical peels, retinoids, antioxidants, daily SPF	Gentle pigment inhibiting ingredients, lowheat laser protocols, chemical peels – such as Cosmelan, strict photoprotection
SPF Importance	High	Critical — melasma can worsen even with brief exposure
Prognosis	Excellent with consistent treatment	Chronic condition; controlled rather than “cured”